short version.
If you like detail skip the short version and read the long version further
down.
Short Version:
Well this day was certainly a long and memorable one. We left fairly early
and travelled all day passing through semi-arid regions to very green ones
filled with plantations. Along the way we stopped to buy fruit, for me to
pray at a beautiful mosque, and took a detour by mistake. About an hour
after a beautiful sunset, while traveling through a very remote area (bandit
country) one of the Landrover's shocks exploded and we were left stranded in
literally the middle of no where. Fortunately two paramiliatary trucks came
by who just happened to have a mechanic and a spare shock! They were very
helpful and fitted it in about an 1.5 hours. We continued at around 10pm
when the second front shock blew. We were then forced to return to the
nearest village, called Merille in the Losai National Park and spend the
night there. Fortunately the accommodation was
run by a Muslim and so we got to eat a local dish. After eating and
showering (consisting of washing with a cloth due to a lack of running
water) we turned to bed. I was going to be up early to pray Fajr at the
local mosque.
Long Version:
The day started off with a wake up call from Simon C. Fortunately I was
already awake but sincce we were leaving early I rushed around; praying,
packing away sleeping bag, thermarest, clother and finally my tent . all in
record time. Once again I skipped breakfast but that was okay since I am
doing zero exercise. Simon C and I were packed quite a while before the
others who were struggling with the cover of their roof top tent and also
had to fill up their internal fresh water tank. This was done through a hose
pipe from one of the taps. What is interesting is that the fresh water is
delivered by tankers to each house which stores it in underground storage
which then requires a bump to product the little water pressure there is.
Finally we made it on our way at around 7:30am, 30 minutes behind schedule.
I quickly worked out how to use the particular gps we had while Simon drove
behind Taryn and Deon. We thought we would show them respect and follow
instead of lead. This was quite funny when we watched them make a couple of
mistakes. I was quite surprised to find that Deon did not know how to search
for a location which meant he was not able to have the gps auto route direct
to our destination. Fortunately when we stopped to fill up petrol I showed
him how.
About 30 minutes after leaving, Taryn (who was driving) pulled over,
complaining of a clonking noise. Visual inspection could not confirm
anything. We headed over to the nearest garage to have a better look but
still were not able to find anything. It was however pointed out to us that
the left rear tyre of the Landcruiser was deflated and after having it
checked it turned out that the tyre was not seated properly. Re-seating it
sorted out the problem. While the others were inspecting the Landy I had a
nice opportunity to chat to the owner of the construction company who was
busy inspecting his site. He is doing work for Shell on 6 garages and it was
interesting chatting to him about being a businessman. He was also most
helpful with information.
Taryn and Deon had left earlier (while we had the tyre sorted out) and so we
continue on our own until we caught up with them at some fruit & veg sellers
on the side of the road. We tried to bargain and got some good buys
including avocado, mango and banana's. Interestingly though the watermelon
was much more expensive than in South Africa.
About 15min after leaving we were forced to stop while a herd of cattle
strolled across the road. Further along we came across a rather unique site;
a street vendor selling He was selling coffins and headstones!
At around 12:45pm we stopped briefly at a beautifully architectured mosque
so I could pray Asr. On entering the compound (perhaps there was a school
to) I greeted a few of the men and they organised for another brother to
show me the Wudu area. The mosque itself was simple yet ornate, all in wite
with a big tower made up of patterned see-through bricks. The Wudu area was
also interesting as one has to walk along a narrow concrete pathway from the
Wudu area to the mosque. After a slight detour (someone forgot to look at
the gps) we continued driving, with Mount Kenya to our right hidden in
cloud.
We continued driving with the terrain alternately varying from semi-arid to
wooded green areas filled with various plantations (various types of nuts,
possibly proteas). Many of the trees along the side of the road were filled
with the nest of weaver birds To the west hidden by clouds was majestic
Mount Kenya, second highest mountain in Africa. At around 4pm we started
driving through a semi arid landscape of thorns tree and trees with wide
umbrellas...I call them FNB trees (like in their logo)
We left the tar at around 5pm the tar with the Landy taking serious strain
along struggled along the terribly rutted dirt road. I was now in the
Landrover after having swapped places with Taryn a hour or so earlier and
Deon was forced to drive at at 35km/h while the Landcruiser was happy to do
80 km/h. On the positive side the slow speed allowed us to take in the
amazing scenery which included more mountains with interesting silhouettes,
large ant hills with huge spires up to 2m tall on top of a mounds about 2 m
wide. Minature buck, the height of a very large house cat but with legs like
match sticks could be seen along the side of the road and hiding in the
scrub a few meters away.
Also along the way we came across a few of the indigenous people, some of
them dressed in their traditional clothing..or lack there off. They were
most striking with their bead work, black skin and white smile. We stopped
by one husband and wife team who were herding camels. We tried to ask if we
could take a picture but they did not understand so I just decided to take
anyway.. However after I took them he demanded money and did not seem happy
with what we offered. Eventually we decided to just drive off much to his
disgust I think. I guess it was a lesson learnt.. You really have to try and
respect people no matter how much you want to take photos. The thing is that
some are quite happy for you to take a photo so do you just take a photo if
you are not in a position to ask (like when driving)? The Chinese have been
contracted to tar the road and are making good process in grading and
preparing the existing road and I wonder how it will impact the lives of
these indigenous people. A few tyres littered the current road bearing
testimony to how rugged it is
Around 6:15pm a lovely full moon could be seen rising to the east. 15
Minutes later to the west a beautiful beautiful orange, African sunset took
our breath away and signaled the time for me to break fast. Afterwards we
swapped vehicles with Deon and Taryn taking over the landrover in the hope
of speeding things up. However the speed did not improve and around an hour
later we saw the Landrover slow down and smelt that unique, pungent smell of
burning oil. It turned out the the Landrover had blown its left front shock
and furthermore that the spring was unseated. Being out of cellphone
reception, in the middle of no where and in known bandit country did not
help matters. We decided to phone March so Taryn set up the Satellite phone.
Unfortunately March was not available on either his cellphone or land line
so we were wondering what to do next. Taryn phoned her dad (a Landy fundi)
but was unable to get through either! We were debating whether to camp there
or simply leave the Landy and head towards the nearest village, around 20km
away. While we were dicussing this March phoned back and he suggested we
park the Landy in the bushes and drive through to the next village and the
following day drive to Marsabit (100km) away to pick up a mechanic and
shock.. As Simon C (being the one with the most mechanical knowledge) was on
the phone to March a truck lights could be seen coming down the road. We
were hopeful and worried at the same time. The truck stopped some distance
from us and I wonder whether they were bandits who had seen us and decided
to arm up before continuing on to us.
Fortunately and most unexpectedly it was Paramilitary police all dressed in
camouflage and carrying machine guns. Simon hung up as the stopped to offer
their help. They just happened to have a mechanic on board and he started
checking out the problem when a when a second paramilitary vehicle came
along. This time it was the head of the division in his Landy. Knowing the
road, he carried a spare shock along and offered it to us for a reasonable
fee. The mechanic went to work modifying it slightly to fit our Landy while
I handed out all the chocolate I had and a few cold cool drinks from the
fridge. I really appreciated all the police waiting for over an hour while
the mechanic fixed it.
I got to chat with some of the policemen as we waited. I was most interested
in their views and the questions they asked me about South Africa. One of
the things they asked was why South Africans strike when they have jobs. I
explained Apartheid and a culture of expectation but he still could not
understand why they would strike! They were also excited about soccer and
very proud of Kenya and the stability they have. Of course Madiba was
mentioned by them as well...he truly is an African Icon. Oh they also
appeared to hold Jacob Zuma in high regard despite his past.
I was also honored and humbled to sit down by the side of the road and chat
with an Iman by the name of Kareem who was catching a lift with the
paramilitary truck. He was back from Nairobi where he had gone to try and
obtain funding and food for his community. I found out the he was the Iman
of a mosque two villages further on and that the small islamic community
there were suffering, with some of them starving,. We swapped contact
information and perhaps I will get to visit him on my return to Kenya.
Inshallah things will come right for them
Finally around 9:00pm we headed on our way entering the Losai National Park
(although there were no signs) only for the right front shock to
blow as the Landy crossed a bridge just past the past the next village of
Merille. Simon C and I decided to drive the Landy back at 9km/h to the
village and let Deon and Taryn go back to the village, call Merille to find
accommodation
as it was 10:00pm!
Fortunately the village did have accommodation and because it was Muslim
owned I could eat the food. Also he allowed me to use his pray area although
the mosque (being a village) was a 1 minute walk from our room. We all
shared a single room with drapes that reminded me of the Bedouin tents. We
had a lovely halaal supper of goats meat, a potao and vegetable soup and a
chiappti (like a roti) It was my first time eating goat meat but it
certainly wont be my last...it was yummy! For dessert Simon C cut up a nice
pineapple that we shared. I began to really appreciate water as there were
no taps and washing considered of using a cloth and wiping ones body down
which I did. All water had to be collected by hand. I must say that it was
still rather nice to be able to get clean again although the toilets were
long drops and we had to squat which really works the legs :P.
After chatting we all headed to bed and to sleep. I had to get up at 5:15am
to meet with the Abdul(the owner) so he could take me to mosque!
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