short version. If you like detail skip the short version and read the long
version further down.
Short Version:
After waking early we managed to getting going at 6am and headed through
lunar like landscape passing caravans of camels. We picked had to pick up
guards for the last leg to the border and had work done there in the town of
Moyale before crossing over to Ethiopia. There we had to wait for the
customs officials and took the time to exchange money (which caused a few
problems) and for me to visit the mosque. We filled up with petrol and
bought water on the black market before continuing, reaching the town of
Mega at sunset where we had a lovely meal and slept the night.
Long Version:
I awoke early but decided I was too tired to walk to the mosque, a fair
distance away. Instead I woke everyone up and had some Pronutro for the
first time as for some reason I was really hungry. Simon C cooked breakfast
for the rest which was french toast with honey. I was a little disturbed to
find a dead goat with unborn kid around the side of the building we were
in...but I guess life is harsh in this area.
Having packed up in record time we managed to leave at 6am, the moon setting
one one side, a beautiful orange sun rising on the other side. The landscape
became fields of volcanic rock, with nothing growing at all, almost lunar in
appearance. Along the way we passed caravans of camels loaded with water,
mostly led by women. Some were muslim judging by their dress and others not
(juding by lack of clothes). It must be a really harsh life in a lunar like
environment... yet they still had time to wave and occasionally smile. One
woman however did throw a rock at our car for some reason but fortunately
she missed. The path they used was not the road but a smaller track
parallel with it that has probably be in use of eons.
Kraals, probably made by the nomads also dotted the landscape. Further along
we passed a microwave station, the only signs of modern inhabitation for
hours around. The countryside became more green although the few trees on
the side of the road were a lovely red colour from the road dust. Around
9:30am we were stopped at a checkpoint outside the town of Turbi. There we
were told we had to take a an armed guard because bandits were in the area
and attacked every couple of months although the last attacked had be in
April or March. Although we felt it was probably just another money making
scam we had little choice as so hired one soldier per car who drove with us
all the way to the Moyale.
We arrived in the bustling town of Moyale with no bandits in site and made
our way to the nearest mechanic to have the remaining bushes replaced as
this was the only town that had them. It was so nice to once again see the
streets filled with muslims(the town is 90% muslim I think and there are 11
mosques!) and with me wearing my fezz I attracted a lot of side glances
although being a bigger town people were less friendly...or perhaps it was
the language barrier?
After the repairs were done there was some disagreement on the amount. It
seems to be a frequent occurrence that we agree on a price and that they
then change it afterwards. We stuck to our guns and wouldn't pay anymore and
in the end they grudingly accepted it. Afterwards we headed to the border
control. The person there was very nice and we encountered no problems. We
then drove across to the Ethiopian side and back in time to September 2001.
The Ethiopians use a different calendar and time system which is very
interesting on its own. In fact we will be celebrating their New Year the
following Saturday as well at Eid in a few weeks.
We had to pull over to a parking lot to wait for officials. As it was
Saturday the offices were closed for 3 hours for lunch which meant we had to
wait until 3pm. Since we were not allowed to leave the area we had limited
options namely, coffee, exchange money or stay put. One of the off-duty
officers was a muslim and he found me a place to make wudu and then walked
me to the mosque while the others rigged one of the awning on the car, took
out the seats and drinks and made lunch.
On the way to the mosque after passing the bones of some dead animals and
lots of rubbish lying in the streets, I was confronted by one of the border
patrol guards. He was very aggressive and despite the two gentleman
accompanying me try to sooth him he was not interested. Shouting "Boy, come
here", he indicated for me to stop. However when I turned and greeted him
with "Asymlum Aleikum" and explained that I was going to mosque to pray
Zhuhr he demeanor changed drastically and he said "Oh of course, go pray my
brother" in a warm and friendly tone and a smile on his face.
The mosque itself was a very simple affair consisting of corrugated iron
walls and ceiling with plastic carpets inside. I loved the humbleness of it
and the those attending. I greeted everyone I could and then headed back.
Deon and Taryn decided to exchange money and so we walked with the money
exchangers, a short gentleman by the name of Brook, to his office. There He
agreed a rate of 15:1 which seemed acceptable as no commission was charged.
However one of his partners indicated to me that he would give me 17
Ethiopian Birr to 100 Kenyan dollars since I was a muslim brother (Brook was
not).
While the others went for the famous Ethiopian coffee, I got our money to
and headed to a different location to do the exchange. This was going to
prove a very uncomfortable transaction for all parties later as I will
explain later.
After collecting the money I headed back to the cars and opened up the
pantry in the back to look for something only to find the very runny peanut
butter container had opened spilling everything everywhere so I spent the
next 30min cleaning it!
When the others returned it was near 3pm and so Simon and I headed to get
our immigration done...or so we thought...I was actually customs. Now the
official in Ethiopia don't seem to wear uniform which makes it difficult to
know who to trust. The guy for customs was dressed in casual jeans and a
sleeveless white t-shirt! Everything went smoothly and we then headed over
to immigration where we found Deon and Taryn.
Unfortunately for Deon and Taryn the customs guy had gone home so they had
to pay him to come back to the office to sort out their vehicle! While this
was happening I was asked by Brook whether I had exchanged my money and I
said I had. This led to questions being asked by the group of men who turned
out to all be in some sort of mini cartel around money exchanging; Brook
being the number 1 guy. A lot of heated discussion, finger-pointing and
shouting ensued as they were unhappy that one of them had broken the "Rules"
and given me a better price. Religious favoritism on my part also came into
the argument. Fortunately it all worked out okay when we agreed to exchange
our Euros.
Finally at 4pm we headed out of the town and filled up with petrol. Simon C
and I had a heart stopping moment when we could not find our dollars.
Fortunately it turned out it had slipped out of the packet behind the seat.
Tensions between Deon and the rest of us flared when Simon C and I needed to
go back into town to find water. I lost it for a moment with Deon when he
refused to go back into town, especially considering how we had been delayed
by the repairs to the vehicle he was in as well as the slower maximum speed
that Landy was able to be driven at.
We headed back to town and Brook arranged for water to be purchased on the
black market. Water only comes to the town once a day by truck and is a very
scare commodity with the water shortage. Getting into our tanks was a
problem but Taryn came up with an ingenious method of putting the container
on top of the vehicle and siphoning into the lower water tank inside the
vehicle. We also exchanged some more money for a quantity of 1 Birr notes
which would be used to pay the indigenous people for taking their
photograph.
On our way again we drove along nice, tar roads for the first time in days,
and I drifted off as Simon drove. At around 7:15p, after having witnessed
another glorious, orange sunset; we reached the town of Mega about 110km
away from the border.
A very nice shopkeeper that Taryn had befriended showed us a place to sleep
which provided security for the vehicles and was quite nice although there
was no electricity, running water (the usual now) and a long drop toilet
(also the usual now). I must mention here how I admired Taryn for being such
a people person and her ability to engaged with the locals will stand us in
good stead in the future!
After unpacking we headed back into the small town on a guided tour of the
eating establishments all the while being hounded by the local children.
Again I got the strange looks and questions by the local because I was
wearing my fezz...I guess you do get too many Farangi (Foreigners) that are
Muslim. A big yellow moon could be seen rising above minarets of the local
mosque.
Unfortunately the first establishment was a bar with loud music and smoking
but we managed to find a secluded restaurant just around the corner from
where we were staying. It had a low roof, candle lit tables and a authentic
feel. We all had Injera; a kind of sour pancake the size of a extra large
pizza and made out of sorghum. With it comes a very spicy tomato sauce
(called wot) to dip into or pour on top...it certainly got my lips tingling
and the whole dish was really quite yummy and our first local cuisine in
Ethiopia!
While eating I heard chanting coming over the loud speakers of the loud
mosque, very rhythmic and soothing and I yearned to join but was too tired
at the same time. It went on for hours. Deon was very keen to taste the
local beer and so th rest of the group ordered...I cant unfortunately say
how good it was.
After supper and a nice bucket bath (which meant washing from out of a
bucket) I washed some clothes, re-learnt how to use the satellite modem,
prayed, did some writing and sneaked a couple of rusks before finally
heading to bed a little to late!
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