06/09/2009 Day 7, 416km: Village of Mega, Ethiopia to Lake Stephanie, Ethiopia

I have written two versions of each item so if you are in a hurry read
the short version.
If you like detail skip the short version and read the long version
further down.

*Short Version:*

Leaving at 6am to catch up time we drove through more semi-arid land and
down into the Omo Valley. Passing through the Omo Valley with it green
cotton fields we made our way to the traditional Hamer village of Arbore
which is actually a resettlement initiative. Picking up a guard due to
infighting between tribes we headed out immediately to bone dry Lake
Stephanie and drove across its dry surface to hot water springs along
the lakes edge. After watching a beautiful sunset we headed back,
camping in the middle of the lake. A supper of roasted veggies and
sausage was cooked on an open fire, while I did my “homework”. After
praying I headed for my tent, it had been an amazing day!
*
Long Version:*

Despite the late night I was up early after not sleeping so well. I woke
up to eat and pray and the woke up everyone else. Although I had wanted
to pray Fajr at the mosque I was just too tired :(. We all packed in
record time and thus were able to leave on time at 6am, but not before
having to locate the gatesman to let us out. After searching high and
low we found him asleep in a little metal hokkie that was so small he
fitted into like a coffin!

We left town with the sun casting a golden light on everything. After
passing by huge anthills that competed with the human habitations (they
were that big and numerous!) and a few traditional villages (made of mud
and wood lattice-work walls and straw roofs) we arrived in the town of
Yavello at around 7:45am. I noticed a lot of the men and very yellow in
these traditional villages had stained teeth. I was told it has
something to do with what they eat.

At Yavello junction just before the town we witnessed are first scam. We
arrived to fill up with petrol but were told that there was none...yet
the little tik-tik (tricycle taxi) had just filled up! At Yavello we
stopped at coffee shop. Ethiopia is famous for its coffee for which it
is apparently the origin. It is served in very small cups of about
125ml. We had more Injera (see yesterdays blog) with another spicy
tomatoe sauce and had a brief chat with a local. I decided not to fast
as I felt that fasting had compromised my ability to think fast and be
alert which is critical when driving rutted dirt roads! Afterwards we
tried to pay the bill but the language barrier was just to great that we
needed (or thought we did) to find someone who could speak decent
English. However by the time I had found someone it was all agreed :).

We left town, ascending into a pass of sorts with children doing a
traditional dance on the side in the hope of receiving money. The dance
reminded Simon C and I of that famous russian dance where they dance
with bent knees low to the ground. It was rather comical and
entertaining at the same time although we were not able to time it such
that we could get a photo. After swapping partners (with me driving the
Landrover) we wound through a series of hills as we crossed one dry
river bed after another, way-pointing each one. I wonder weather these
large riverbeds are just there for the floods or whether Ethiopia was
more lush and water rich in the past? The road was a work in progress in
preparation for tarring within the next year which meant a variety of
detours as we hopped on an off the new road depending on whether the
leveling had be done or not. Mostly it was due to holes where piping had
to go in.

We passed many villages of the Borena people who have terraced all the
available land just like the Inca's and the workmanship is superb. I was
transported back to my previous travels through Peru, it was so similar!
I was told the Borena have been here for over 1500 years, building their
homesteads on hills with highwalls for protection. In the trees were
many man-made beehives which I imagine the Borena put there to provide
them with honey. From time to time a ground squirrel would run across
the road on some secret mission of its own.

Eventually we arrived in Konso just after 12pm and managed to find some
petrol; not at the petrol station, but through the blackmarket and at a
considerable premium, 40% more to be exact. We stopped at one of the
locals “hotels” for more injera, took a walk to the campsite (not nice
IMO), did some shopping (got a local sim card!) and found ourselves a
guide, Chu Chu. There also was a bakery and we sampled all the varieties
of baked goods on sale including Samoosas filled with Lentils which were
so yummy I ended up having to buy another two! Interestingly many kids
were playing table tennis outside on the streets. Taryn and I decided to
have a go and it was quite a challenge what with the broken ball and all.

We were off again towards the Omo Valley. Along the road kids were
selling various trinkets and little mini tv's, made of a drawing that is
rolled back and forward to simulate a moving picture. With all the
cattle along the road I asked Chu Chu what happens when one is knocked
over and told me that when this happens the driver and passenger cut it
up quickly and then wait for the owner to come and pay him for it! In
the fields were what looked like mini dwelling of weaved stick and
thatch on stilts. They are used to store grain for the planting season
and no one steals. Apparently no one steals it because people always
find out and the punishment is harsh.

Around 1:45pm we left the tar, passing through a river with the
partially built Bailey bridge above us. Further on two children were
selling the skins of black and white Columbus monkeys. I guess some
people buy such things!

A very short while later we got our first glimpse of the Omo Valley as
we descended down the pass into into the great Rift Valley of which it
is a part. The vegatation was very dry, similar to the Karoo with
baobab-like trees displaying their beautiful pink flowers in contrast to
the dull colours of the surroundings. As the day was at its hottest we
crossed of the Weyito river and with temperature soaring to 35'c plus we
all stopped and had a swim in the river, having loads of fun playing
with the local kids and splashing each other, While ChuChu our guide
snapped away with the camera, something that he seems to really
enjoy...he is also rather good!

Around 3pm we passed through a very flat floodplain. The vegetation was
more green; with trees that looked liked weeping willow a common sight.
Along the way we saw a Martial eagle sitting majestically, casting his
sharp eyes down on his domain. A sign to the right indicated a UN
project. The hills (perhaps mountains) to the west running parallel with
the road reminded my of those I had walked in Mendoza, Argentina. I
noticed that the soil in this plain was dark and rich which probably
accounted for the large cotton production here. The people of the
villages along side the road were still living very much as they had
been with women bare breasted and the men wearing a simple skirt/loin
clothe to cover themselves.

At around 2:50pm we pulled into the sandy village of Arbore, a
resettlement project for many displaced peoples although we only met
members of the Hamer tribe with whom we took photos for the almost
standard fee of 2birr (about R1.25) per photograph. As we had arrived
early we had to make decision as to wether to stay the night or try and
press on to Lake Stephanie. According the the head of the police station
there it was a dangerous area due to tribal fighting. If we wanted to go
to Lake Stephanie we would have to pay for a guard.
The police also were at pains to point out what a rough road it was with
many people shredding tyres etc.

Having decided to push on, we hired a guard and continued down the sandy
road with Simon C and I, who have a similar sense of humor, playing
around with the camera. We pulled of the main dirt road and onto a jeep
track that wound past traditional Hamer villages, with the locals asking
for water bottles and water. This I found unusual but with it being the
dry season and water being so scare and far-away they might not drink
for a day! The Hamer people are very distinctive with the woman having
braided hair cover in a red mud, jewellery of copper, brass and silver
bracelets with lots of beading and a leather skirt amongst the many
other adornments.

We wound are away along the sandy track which was not very well defined,
avoiding thorn trees and other obstacles across the path. Eventually we
pulled onto Lake Stephanie which is a vast dried up lake which reminded
me a great deal of the the Uyuni Salt pans of Bolivia. We drove across
the lake until about 5:30pm when the guard indicated to us (through
ChuChu) that we should camp. We were not keen, wanting to press on and
convinced him to continue.
We moved away from the shoreline and cut across the lake in a south west
direction. The landscape was flat and white with only the occasional
snail shell indicating any signs of the life that must have inhabited
this area. Stopping along the way, Simon C and Taryn got on top of their
respective vehicles as we drove towards the other site of the lake,
having a bit of fun doing loops and swirls as the sun began its descent,
bathing the mountains and landscape in a golden glow...it really was
unforgettable!

After arriving on the otherside we took a walk to some hotsprings that
must have been nearly boiling, it was that hot. We also met a couple of
teenager youngster (max age around 15) who had lost their cattle and had
been out searching for two days, sleeping out under the stars.
Traditionally the children leave home from 8yrs old to become men,
fending for themselves. We need firewood so we paid them to find some
around the nearby koppie and gave them so food and water...they had not
eaten all day! Deon decided to have a whiskey while the sunset while I
waypointed the location of the Hotspring.

The guard was getting ansy about navigating back in the dark so we
reluctantly left (it was not really an issue for us as we could
trackback with our gps's). We retraced our steps back until we got near
the middle of the lake and there we stopped, setting up camp, with the
vehicles positioned to protect us from the wind!

The guys dug a firepit (I was prevented from doing so due to my back),
and everyone got to work doing their bit; Simon C preparing roasted
veggies and butternut, Taryn cooking the sausages, the guard and ChuChu
setting up the tents and making themselves useful and me doing more
“homework”. The stars in the sky were absolutely amazing and I was in
awe. Later the full moon made its way into the sky casting the whole
campsite into a luminescent glow.

After making my final prayer I headed to bed, a little surprised that
the guard was also in bed...and one we had provided for him nogal!